For 7 days, I immersed myself in one of Sidetracked Adventures Hut to Hut trips in Finland. As an avid downhill skier for over 20 years, I didn’t think there was anything that could quite beat the feeling I experienced in the snowy Alps. I may have been wrong.

DAY 1 - Landing in Ivalo and witnessing the northern lights

I land in Ivalo at nearly midnight. After 12 hours of travelling, a delayed connection in Helsinki and a questionable amount of peanut M&M’s, you’d think I’d be worn out, frustrated and sick of sweets. But I just experienced the northern lights on the plane over here, it’s snowing like glitter showering down and the moon is out. A short bus drive later, I’m in Kippolaa and I can officially say, I’m in the Arctic Circle.

I don’t want to wake up some of the group who arrived earlier in the day, so I make my way to the cabin, tip-toe in, find a bed, dump my rucksacks and fall almost immediately into a deep slumber. Hours later, I awake to the soft chatter of my group mates and within minutes, it’s welcoming hugs and my day of long travel feels quite behind me. Over lunch, we share a little about ourselves. We bond over Finnish pastries and how many merino wool items we’ve each got, comparing snacks we’ve packed for the week and how many battery packs we’ve got between us. It’s anticipation mixed in with excitement and just a smidge of anxiety. But most of all, pure wonder. Because we haven’t even set off on the trip yet and already the marshmallow white tree line and wilderness around us is a sight to behold.

By the afternoon, we met our guide Sirpa. We’re doubling our socks to try on different sizes of ski boots before settling for the ones that are Goldilocks “just right” (top tip - go two sizes bigger than your normal size!). The downhill skiers amongst us are relieved to find we’ll be wearing a much more comfortable boot this week - where your foot doesn’t feel like it’s being held in a vice. Next, we take a look at the route for the week and the all-important menu is talked through. Not only does it sound healthy and nutritious, it sounds down right delicious.

After an evening of reindeer burgers and more stories revealing the comedians in our group, we retire back to the cabin for final prep. Applying our own skins to our skies, Sirpa then walks us through how we’ll be packing the sleds in the morning. She’s our leader for the week, but she comes as a pair. Her beautiful dog Luna will be joining us too. Luna immediately steals our hearts (and at times our snacks) and quickly becomes the mascot of the group. Whilst some head for an evening sauna, I retreat to my bed, curled up with a book I can barely concentrate on because I’m now very aware that tomorrow, we’re going off-grid and the wild awaits.

DAY 2 - Trail day jitters and the compost loo with a view

And we’re off. A morning of packing sledges, trying to lift them and then re-packing again. Despite most of us mentioning we’re not really breakfast people, an eagle-eyed Sirpa encourages us to eat up as we slurp at our porridge and nibble on pieces of toast. Not a crumb goes to waste when you’re about to enter a calorie deficiency. Decently caffeinated and layered up, we make our way outside, say goodbye to our cosy cabin and head to our start line. Now is the time for the final wees, collection of poles and an obligatory first-day photo.

Nervous laughs, getting acquainted with our skies but then there’s no time to waste and we’re off. Following the freshly laid tracks through the Finnish National Park, our “road” then widens out into expansive rolling hills as far as the eye can see. Nobody can say anything but gleeful gasps and wide eyes as we can’t quite believe we’re finally here. Not long into our morning, toes and fingers are toasty and there’s reindeer on the horizon. What’s not to love?

Ahead to lunch and we’ve landed at our first lunch spot. We’re greeted by the shelter of a 60-year-old day hut and a compost bathroom break overlooking the fells that would put Glastonbury to shame. We dine on soup straight from the thermos - the steam curls up from our wooden cups and we allow the liquid to warm us through whilst chewing on rye bread and Oltermanni cheese, taking in the view of our winter wonderland home for the next 6 days.

Just as the last bit of ice on our boots has melted, it’s back up and out. For those of us pulling the sledges, the ascent is an interesting experience. On the one hand, you’re carrying all your belongings in an act of pure survivalist vibes. On the other hand, you’re basically a pack horse. But as we take it in turns carrying the load, there’s a sense of camaraderie that makes it all worth it.

As dusk is well upon us, a forest glade appears to us as does our digs for the next two nights. As we pile into our sleeping quarters, we get to it with our roles. Firestarter team, water team, emptying the sledge team, who wants top bunk, who wants bottom, damp socks lined up over the furnace, candles lit and hot chocolate straight onto the stove. Dinner is delicious and is followed by squeaky cheese and cloudberry jam - don’t judge, just go with it. Chefs kiss.

It feels like midnight but it’s barely 8pm. Everyone’s deliriously happy, achy and warm. It’s time for bed and without doubt, all of us fall peacefully asleep within minutes of blowing the candles out.

DAY 3 - Otter tracks and forest trails

Forest day. Unbelievable Jeff. There was a decision to be made. We’ll be staying at the same hut again tonight so the sledges will stay behind. So, do we want to explore over the hill and beyond? Or is today the day we follow the river and venture into the forest? We voted forest. Of course, we did. Covering over 12km, we witnessed otter tracks, the remnants of a bird of prey enjoying its lunch and a couple of falls when I wasn’t concentrating - I was looking up at the trees okay! But here’s the thing with falling into masses of fresh pow at roughly 3km’s per hour - it feels like falling into a ball pit. Except when you put your hand down too far, it just hits more clouds of snow, not someone’s old chewing gum or a sweaty child’s lost sock.

A snow shower starts to come in and so an outside lunch is abandoned to sausages sizzling over the day hut stove, more sandwiches and refills of hot squash and a smattering of shared snacks. We take our time because today, we’ll be experiencing skiing back in the dark. It’s amazing what the human body and mind can do with the right equipment and the encouragement of others.

And so with a farewell to our lunch spot, we make a hasty retreat back. Nipped toes and cold fingers don’t last too long. Head torches are on, the snow is glittering and it’s heads down, empty minds and just concentrating on the trail ahead. It’s electric. Deep into the wilderness, hoods up, thighs burning, snatches of snacks and sips of the water we have left, the aim is back to the warmth of our hut for the night.

Once we glide in, the pots are immediately set to boil for noodles and stir fry. As the teriyaki is passed around, we still can’t quite believe how well we’re eating on this trip. Not a freeze-dried pack of food in sight. As the Garmin girls compare distances for the day, I sit on my bed and stretch out achy hips and tight shoulders. It’s an exquisite feeling of a day well explored coursing through my body. Feet slightly sore, wind chilled cheeks. Content.

As we bed down for the night, those on the bottom bunk feel honoured when the pitter-patter of paws means Luna has chosen the feet of your sleeping bag as her bed for the night. Those with head torches not on charge devour pages of their books before their bodies give into rest, burrowed deep into their duck down.

DAY 4 - Skiing through Finland’s forests and a moonlit arctic bath

By 9am it’s time to make tracks. Literally. After a breakfast of pancakes and double helpings of steamy coffee, we say farewell to our two-night stay at the new hut. Call us Ben Fogle, but as the hills open up to us, now we really feel like we’re on an expedition. It’s not freezing today, but we’re feeling the wind chill.

Before you know it, we turn off the trail and our guide Sirpa declares we’re about to literally make our own tracks and lead ourselves through the forest and down into the valley. The skiers without sledges head to the front of the pack where we begin carving through 4 feet of snow to ease the journey of our team behind. I keep my head down to battle through the fresh powder and at the girls gleeful exclamations, I stop to look up and wow, I feel like I just stepped into Narnia. Snow-dusted marshmallow trees as far as the eye can see.

We carry on for a few more kilometres and then Sirpa asks what we think of the beautiful old tree ahead with the overhanging canopy. We all agree it’s quite stunning as the photographers in the group reach for their lenses. This, she says, is where we will take lunch. I’ve had lunch in some beautiful spots before, but this is quite something. As we roll out the mats and plonk down in the snow, cheese and crackers are dished out along with a healthy helping of noodle soup. The group goes quiet as we contently munch and take in our surroundings.

Is it just us or did we really pick the best hobbies?

With Luna leading the way, we soon arrive at our 3rd night's accommodation. You’d be forgiven for thinking there was no way 8 of us would be able to cram into this little hut. But once bunks are selected and there’s a home for everything, we settle in. We’ve had an early arrival so when Sirpa says we’ll be able to shower at this hut, we’re all looking forward to a wash, if not a little confused when we’re unable to find a sign for the shower facilities.

And that’s because there isn’t one. This will be an experience I will never forget. What Sirpa means, is that we’ll each take it in turns heading round to the back of the hut and with nothing but a pale of hot water, freshly heated on the stove and a piece of clothing to dry off with, we strip, we bathe by the moonlit and wash the last few days from our bodies.

I really ummed and aahed about giving this a go. But rather than letting my Britishness win out, I volunteered to go first. And you know what, it’s pretty exhilarating to stand butt naked in the Finnish National Park and watch the steam rise from your body with the soapy suds of eucalyptus permeating the fresh air. Once bathed, Sirpa treated us to probably the most delicious salmon pasta I’ve ever tasted, washed down with hot juice and followed by mud pie with vanilla sauce.

But that’s not where the night finished. Whilst Sirpa got half of us started on whittling our own cutlery from the pine in our wood store, I cracked out the Tarot cards. After all, it was a full moon. We busy ourselves sanding our little spoons and knives, and listening to Harry Potter on audiobook. When our hands are sufficiently sore from our woodwork and predictions made for our futures by the major and minor arcana, we brush our teeth by candlelight and arrange our sleeping bags.

As tired heads hit the bunk beds, we were just drifting off into a slumber when there was a knock at the door. Luna is immediately alert and we’re wondering if the couple in the next hut need to borrow a saucepan. But no, just when the night couldn’t possibly get any better, they’re letting us know that Finland is doing what it does best and shoots of green are appearing in the sky. This is a Finnish couple, they see the Northern Lights all the time so if they’re saying you need to come see the sky, you immediately need to come see the sky. You’ve never seen a group of outdoors folk bundle into their down jackets so fast, tumbling outside to capture a glimpse of this wonderful event.

Staring up, we watch the Aurora dance. She’s kissing the full moon and playing with the trees beneath her. The big dipper stays strong and true in the universe looking down at us as we look up at it, once again reminded of how insignificant our common human problems actually are. Sufficiently nippy and with cameras full of memories, back inside we go to settle down for another night in our very own forest dream hut.

DAY 5 - Lunas Girls and blizzard conditions

Porridge for breakfast. But not just any porridge. This is the full works porridge. Take your pick. Honey, peanut butter, cloudberry jam, blueberries, seeds, you can even crumble a peanut butter Reese’s cup over the top if you grab one from the group snack stash. And this morning, Sirpa has cracked it and the coffee is extra strong and extra hot. Given we all went to bed and then got straight back up again to watch the aurora, the caffeine is needed.

We’re getting pretty good at packing the sledges now and so as the team assembles, I help Sirpa to sweep up the last of the wood shavings and quickly scribble in the hut visitors notepad, signed “Lunas Girls”. Harness back on, I’ve opted for only 2 layers this morning as we’ve been warned that we have a climb ahead of us. And wow, Sirpa wasn’t kidding. Yes, this forest is beautiful, yes it’s snowing, yes we’re so lucky.

But geez do my traps, lats, chest and shoulders feel like they’re on fire. Every movement is a test of how much I love my outdoor hobbies. But just as you think the frustration is brewing, someone says something to make you smile, laugh, feel grateful or all three at the same time. Whole musical numbers are sung on this trip. Who cares if you fall over, who cares if you need a snack break or a stop to put on an extra layer or just a 5-minute breather and a photo opportunity. We have all the time in the world.

As we continue through Narnia, we’re heading higher and higher into the treeline. Today's lunch is another outside picnic and we choose a spot that shelters us from the growing wind. Soup is sipped, sandwiches are nibbled and it’s a quick arctic wild wee, then we’re back out.

Before long, Finland really gives it some welly and we realise we’ve hit our first blizzard. Buffs are pulled up, goggles put in place, there’s no stopping this girl gang. As we wind our way down, we come to a clearing where the skiers without sleds are summoned to the front. Our trail has been covered so it will be up to us three at the front to create a new trail to ease the way for the rest of the group.

I go first. And I do declare, it’s one of the most spectacular experiences of my life. Wading through 4 feet of fresh untouched snow, knowing it’s my job as a wayfinder to create the path as I go. Is that not the most wonderful analogy for life? It’s not carved out for me but with a little direction, it’s for me to create. Once we get going, we take turns to take on what feels like double leg day at the gym and as dusk leaves us and the night draws in, head torches accompany goggles and it’s all getting a bit giggly as we find the trail again. Now, it’s head down and 1km to the shelter by the glow of our lights. Sticking together and with Luna leading us, the trail opens up and there she is, our hut for the night.

Now, like a well-oiled machine, two of us jump into the hut for fire duty, the water is fetched, sledges emptied and damp base layers are swapped for hut-comfy clothes. A delicious three-bean chilli is served with sriracha on the side, cheese and tortilla chips to mop it up with and tonight it’s just about sitting around the table swapping stories. The evening closes in, sleep comes easily to our achy bodies and the trees around us look over us as we drift once again into a cosy slumber.

DAY 6 - Battling the snow and the impact of global warming.

You know when you take your spoon and crack into a jar of Creme Brule? The spoon splinters through the top deep into the below and comes back up with a mountain of yumminess, right? Now imagine your spoon is your ski, cracking through the ice and bringing back up a mountain of snow. Today was our hardest going day. And before you wonder if this is where our week went downhill (there was some uphill too). No, instead we really showed ourselves what we’re made of. But. Whilst also being sadly reminded of just how much global warming is affecting our beautiful Earth.

Winding back to breakfast - we packed up in our quickest time yet and were greeted by a rather lovely sunrise.But we were also very aware of the temperature. Plus 2 degrees. A temperature Sirpa said she had never experienced in Finland in January her entire life. As we started to test the snow with our skies, it was a consistency we hadn’t experienced all week. A ‘wall of porridge’ some of us declared. A layer of snow ice cracked as the ski blade cut through, revealing sticky snow beneath.

And all around us, the trees were shedding their white winter coats. Sirpa assured us the temperature would be dropping again in the coming weeks and their coats would return. But as it started to rain and we watched the drip drip drip of snow onto our trail, it was a frank reminder of the strain our seasons and planet are under. Pushing forward, the skiers without sledges in the group faced their biggest test of strength. Driving the remnants of the night before blizzard from our path, the ache in our muscles returned.

But there was no room for complaint. At one point, I bent my head low to catch my breath and when I looked back up, the sun was gently kissing the sky. For January in Finland, you’re treated to a long dawn gently handed over to a long dusk before night and the aurora takes over. You feel like you’re experiencing sunrise, but it quickly turns into a long sunset. And what a show it was, blues, pinks and purples scattered across the night sky. The sun dropping low on the horizon like a lover saying goodnight until a new day. We followed the pink sky for a while, swapping our line of skiers to give others a break, willing our feet forward, stopping when we needed to clear the sticky snow from our ski skins.

As the temperature began to drop, our gliding got easier and once again, we were back in the trees, head torches on and sharing a helping hand to get us to our final night. As the time ticked on and the distance was covered, weary bodies and strong minds carried us forward until the clearing came into view. I could feel the days ride through every inch of my body, but after a stretch and a handful of Pringles, our spirits were raised.

As Sirpa toasted our week and declared us “proper Finnish skiers” now, we reflected on the day and how even when you feel you have nothing left to give, there’s always something available to you to carry you through. After Lentil Daal, roasted marshmallows and a final sighting of the northern lights, sleeping bags were rolled out and alarm clocks set for a very early start back to Killopaa and our final day of the trip.

DAY 7 - Tears, ice dips and the return to civilisation

Bleary eyes awaken at 6 am. An early start for our final adventure day and our trek back to Killopaa. The hut is quiet. It’s our final everything - final sandwiches, packing of sleeping bags, picking of trail snacks. It’s dark outside but the snow is still glittering under the light of our head torches. Sirpa asks us to gather around and close our eyes.

She celebrates our accomplishments this week. She asks us to think about this very moment. She says to think back over the last few months to good times and hard times. And just like that, before I know it, tears begin to form and cascade like icicles down my cheeks. She says that whenever life gets hard, think back to this moment. And after months of personally working through one of the hardest experiences of my life, I know I will. I feel the dull ache that’s been resting heavily in my chest move on, collected by the trees and released to the wind.

Perhaps the aurora can turn it into something magical. Our moment of contemplation is comedically broken by Luna’s bark. That’s enough thinking and feeling, humans. It’s time to ski. We load up and begin our ascent out of the valley. Everyone skis out from the forest with sore muscles, clean lines, technical experience, empty minds and full hearts. The hills open up to us and a lean-to appears. Here we take lunch for the last time, we spot animal tracks in the snow, we discuss our meal choices when we arrive back and then onwards we go.

Before long, we see a reindeer herd grazing on the horizon. They greet us as we inch closer and closer back to civilisation. Our final sunset is behind us and the sky is alive with colours of the rainbow once again. As we descend into the village, we say farewell to the national park as the sun says farewell to us.

The evening is filled with cheers, sorting and last but not least - a visit to the ice dip and smoke sauna. Our aches and strains vanish as the freezing cold hits our skin before being nursed back to softness by the dark and warming sauna. The experience brings us all to a place of euphoria.

We’re blissfully joyful over the week we just completed, eager to connect on in-jokes and trail nicknames over pizza and Finnish beer. We’re already missing that last trip to the compost loo, the washing of our dishes by candlelight, the teamwork that comes from eight women in a hut in the woods.

But this isn’t the end, in fact, it’s quite the beginning.

For some of us, this was learning to switch off, for others it was a break from work. Whilst for those who needed a reminder of their inner strength, there were some who needed the surprise of their physical ability. One of us was reminded of the stunning country they were born in through the eyes of their foreign new friends. And for some of us, we came here to heal.

And I did.

A trip of a lifetime ended in hugs, swaps of Instagram handles and a promise to meet again. Thank you to Sidetracked for this incredible experience. It was perfect.

Love, Lunas Girls

Women in the Wild: My Backcountry Ski Adventure in the Arctic Circle -